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Don't Invest In Retinol Alternatives Before Checking *This*, From A Dermatologist
Hannah Frye is the Assistant Beauty Editor at mindbodygreen. She has a B.S. in journalism and a minor in women’s, gender, and queer studies from California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo. Hannah has written across lifestyle sections including health, wellness, sustainability, personal development, and more.
Collagen loss is a natural part of the privilege that is aging—but that doesn't mean all is lost for a plump complexion. In fact, there are a handful of steps you can take to spark collagen production in your skin, no matter your age. One tried-and-true method: retinol. Or, as the current beauty scape offers, a retinol alternative.
The latter option can be confusing, given it's not always utilized properly in product marketing. To ensure you're well-educated on this booming skin care category, I tapped a dermatologist to deliver three basic need-to-knows. Let's dive in:
It's been clinically proven to reduce fine lines & wrinkles
"If an ingredient is able to achieve similar levels of wrinkle reduction comparable to retinol and prove that in a documented study, I would deem it a retinol alternative," explains board-certified dermatologist Sarvenaz Zand, M.D., FAAD.
The key here is to check for a clinical study—before and after photos are a huge plus. A true retinol alternative will improve fine lines and wrinkles but also help to even out skin tone and texture.
Not every single retinol alternative will have clinical studies to back the efficacy (it's a pretty expensive endeavor, especially for small brands), but it's worth having that extra credential when possible.
Think beyond vitamin A
Another form worth noting is bio-retinoids like microalgae that mimic the structure and function of vitamin A without containing loads of the vitamin itself.
Zand refers to a new product from the brand Kinship called DreamWave as one worthwhile example of this cosmetic advancement.
"Unlike bakuchiol and rosehip, whose molecular structures do not resemble vitamin A, Kinship's microalgae from Chlorella Vulgaris is nearly identical to the vitamin A molecule, signaling that it has the same benefits as retinol yet without the potential irritation retinol can cause for sensitive skin," she explains.
Know who it's best for (and who should use the real thing)
Before you commit to the alternative path, you should know who it's best for.
Zand recommends retinol alternatives for individuals with sensitive skin, rosacea, and those experiencing perimenopause, as they often have reactive skin that cannot tolerate traditional retinol products.
However, for those who can use retinol without negative side effects, Zand recommends sticking to it. In fact, she even recommends looking into stronger retinoids like prescription-grade tretinoin if your over-the-counter products haven't delivered the results you're looking for.
Zand wraps up by saying, "Retinoids are the most proven and documented class of age-defying ingredients, and I think they should be a part of everyone's skin care regimen. For people with sensitive skin, using a retinol alternative is key to achieving similar results."
Sold on this approach? Shop our top picks below.
Shop retinol alternatives
The takeaway
Retinol alternatives offer promising options for boosting collagen and improving skin texture, especially for individuals with sensitive skin.
However, you should make sure the product you choose is backed by clinical or consumer studies and be open to the idea of new and innovative bio-retinoids.
Finally, remember that traditional retinol is an evidence-backed ingredient worthwhile for those who can tolerate it. Here, a deeper dive into retinol benefits.
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