Is Coconut Oil Right For Your Face? How To Tell + 5 Ways To Use It For Dewy Skin

Ah, coconut oil. If you've ever encountered the all-natural beauty fave, you likely fall into one of two camps: You either hail it as a multipurpose hero (great for hair and skin), or you bolt every time someone merely mentions the words lauric acid. 

There are more than a few reasons coconut oil is touted as a holy grail in natural skin care. First up: Coconut oil is rich in fatty acids that nourish and smooth the skin.

One fatty acid in particular—lauric acid—has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties; it's even been shown to kill 1Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes)1, which is the bacteria that leads to inflammatory acne (note: Since the study in 2009, P. acnes has been recently renamed Cutibacterium acnes2, or 2C. acnes2). 

Additionally, coconut oil is super moisturizing3: Research shows it can help increase moisture levels in the skin4 (it has an occlusive effect, meaning it seals in hydration), as well as improve skin barrier function5—perhaps that's why those with eczema flares and psoriasis typically find it so skin-soothing6. 

"If your skin is tolerable to the oil (dry and dehydrated skin types, for example), then leaving it overnight can be beneficial," says celebrity facialist Cecilia Wong, founder of Cecilia Wong Skincare. Although, those with oily or acne-prone skin might want to steer clear of this treatment (more on that later). 

That's not to say you have to take the overnight route: Coconut oil actually makes a great wash-off treatment as well. Wong suggests mixing the oil with yogurt for a creamy, DIY face mask base—the lactic acid in yogurt will gently exfoliate, while coconut oil effectively locks in moisture.

Those already on the oil cleansing bandwagon know well: Oil dissolves oil, so using an oil-based cleanser can help remove any excess sebum on your skin, as well as daily dirt and grime. Not to mention, cleansing with oil can protect the natural lipid layer of your skin rather than stripping the barrier down. 

If you don't wish to go for a full-on oil cleanse, coconut oil makes a great natural makeup remover for even the most stubborn of shades (again, oil dissolves oil, and makeup tends to be oil-based).

The moisturizing properties of coconut oil make for a rich, buttery lip salve. "Coconut oil has skin-soothing, emollient, and barrier-supportive properties," says Blake, all of which are necessary in a stellar lip balm.

Especially for those who suffer from lip eczema, coconut oil itself is a wonderful natural ointment; as you may know, the best remedies for eczema tend to have a minimal ingredient list (as extra ingredients can risk triggering even more irritation). Coconut oil, it turns out, is a single-ingredient wonder that's perfect for alleviating any painful flares. 

You've likely heard it once or twice: Coconut oil can be comedogenic. If it works, well, it works in a major way—but for some, applying coconut oil can clogged pores. (However, this is up-for-debate by some; some argue that the comedogenicy of coconut oil is greatly exaggerated. You really just have to try it to find out if it works for you.) The issue comes down to the lauric acid. Lauric acid can accumulate in the top layer of skin without penetrating—which is why some argue it can cause a pore-clogging film on the skin. However, lauric acid also has antimicrobial properties, which many argue can help tend to acne. Ultimately, the consensus is still out on this issue.

So let's say you have normal-to-dry skin. Is coconut oil a must-have? Again, it's not so simple: "The only way to know if virgin coconut oil works for your skin is to experiment," says Blake.

"Not all coconut oils are created equal," says Wong. Meaning, you don't want to pick up a regular kitchen-grade oil and smear it on the delicate skin of your face.

At the very least, look for unrefined (or virgin), organic coconut oil. According to board-certified dermatologist Jessie Cheung, M.D., founder of Cheung Aesthetics and Wellness, this means it's made from fresh coconut and is able to retain the antioxidants and anti-inflammatory benefits. You may also want to look for brands that are fair-trade certified and non-GMO.

However, reaching for a virgin version may depend on your skin type: Virgin coconut oil is solid at room temperature (it contains saturated fats) and has a much heavier weight. That's why, according to Blake, it can sit on the skin and clog pores.

Rather, if you have any fractionated coconut oil on hand (it stays in a liquid state, as the process removes the long-chain fatty acids), it can penetrate the skin more easily and may lead to fewer breakouts.

Short answer? It's all up to your skin type.

A common question among Reddit threads that we should debunk: There is no evidence to suggest that coconut oil can cause facial hair growth.

Perhaps the confusion stems from coconut oil's hair-healthy properties; since it has a low molecular weight9, it's able to penetrate easily into the hair shaft and absorb better than other common oils. So it effectively moisturizes the strands, rather than sitting on top of them—and keeping hair happily moisturized is key for supporting faster growth.

Coconut oil can be helpful for hydrating the delicate under-eye area, considering it's thin and more prone to dryness. Studies have even shown it can promote collagen synthesis and cell turnover8, which might make it an effective treatment for dark circles.

Might is the operative word, here: There are no studies yet to show that coconut oil can improve under-eye circles in particular—but its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties could potentially help soothe the area.

Keeping skin moisturized is crucial not only for delaying the onset of fine lines (by supporting the skin barrier) but it can also plump up the skin and ease the appearance of any folds.

"Keeping the skin well moisturized will help reduce the appearance of any lines," board-certified dermatologist Jeremy Fenton, M.D., of Schweiger Dermatology Group in NYC and Long Beach, New York, tells us about managing neck wrinkles.