Our Comprehensive Guide To The 7 Types Of Acne: Causes + How To Treat Each

While we're here, we should note: These tips only scratch the surface in terms of remedies, as treating acne requires a much more holistic view—diet, stress, and sleep can all affect the condition (we repeat: It's complex!), but this article will focus on specific ingredients for each blemish.

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Now, whiteheads are not the large, tender zits with a big pus-filled center (those are pustules, which we'll get into later). Rather, because whiteheads are not inflamed, they are much subtler. Think small, fleshy bumps on the skin, caused by dead skin, excess oil, and overall debris blocking the pores. 

Blackheads form the same way whiteheads do (i.e., when the pore becomes blocked with gunk and oil) with one caveat: They're considered open comedones. "An open comedone, or blackhead, occurs when this debris is exposed to the air, whereas a closed comedone, or whitehead, occurs when the debris is just under the surface of the skin and not exposed to the air," says Belkin. That oxygen exposure is also what makes them turn dark in color. 

Blackheads and whiteheads are cut from the same cloth (aside from the oxidation of the plug), so you can treat them pretty similarly: 

OK, technically, "subclinical acne" is not a term used in dermatology, but it's used enough in skin care conversations to earn a spot on our list. Essentially, it's a fancy way of saying "congested skin," and it's synonymous with whiteheads. 

"They are non-painful and usually do not lead to scarring or skin discoloration," says Ife Rodney, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Eternal Dermatology. The flesh-colored bumps never seem to come to a "head," but they can progress into pimples or pustules if they become inflamed—which can happen if they're left untreated.

Now, let's enter inflammatory acne territory. "Papules look like solid red bumps, while pustules have pus at the top," board-certified dermatologist Zenovia Gabriel, M.D., FAAD, says regarding forehead acne. Think of the stereotypical red-colored bump you may associate with acne—that's a papule. It starts out as a comedone (either closed or open), then becomes inflamed when bacteria that lives on the skin overgrows inside that clogged pore.

Again, papules often turn into pustules: When the red papule forms a white, pus-filled head, you now have a tender pustule. People often mistake this white head as, well, a "whitehead," but in clinical derm-speak, those are two very different things. It might feel tempting to squeeze the pimple as soon as you see this head forming, but do try to hold off. Self-surgery is not a good idea—best to see a professional for extractions. 

In terms of appearance, nodules look like hard lesions that feel like lumps under the skin; and while they may be flesh-toned or red, they're often pretty painful to the touch. 

Cystic acne is characterized by inflamed lesions, often large in size, that form deep within the skin—but unlike other forms of acne, they never come to a head on the surface. And unlike hard nodules, cysts can be soft to the touch (in fact, they're often puffy and tender).  

Acne is a complex skin condition with several triggers and contributing factors—so you can't expect to treat each spot the same way. Some ingredients are better suited than others for each type of acne, which is why classifying your blemishes is a solid place to start. Here are our favorite moisturizers for acne in case you need a new face cream.